Busy Prep Day – Sept 8

I’ve had two tasks that I wanted to get done with the bees before winter sets in.  These were to lower my hive stand by about 10 inches and the other was to treat the main hives for mites with formic acid (formic pro).  Formic Pro should not be used it the temperatures are expected to get above 92 F. during the first three days of treatment.  This weekend was the first shot at that since August.  Shortening the hive stand involved moving all of the hives, sawing off most of the legs on the stand, then placing the hives back on (might as well do an inspection or two while everything is in motion. 

First, I set up a small pallet next to my hive stand.  The plan was to move the ‘Tardis” hive over a bit to free up some work space anyway.  Did an inspection from the bottom box up moving the hive from the hive stand to the pallet in the process.  The bees are filling every slot of the two deeps and a medium.  I’m very surprised at how many frames of wet larvae and capped brood there are in this hive.  It is bursting at the seams.  I looked carefully for swarm cells and didn’t see any, but this one may swarm late.  Found the (overly productive) queen and carefully caged her while working on the hive. I added two strips of Formic Pro between the bottom brood boxes and buttoned things up.  Set it up with an empty super on top with a 1 qt feeder.

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I’m going to hold feeding this hive until we see some ‘clustering’ weather.  It looks like they have used all the syrup I have given them thus far to raise bees instead of save for winter.  They have about a half dozen good resource frames, but that won’t last long with this many bees in the hive.

Next, I temporarily moved the ‘Misty” NUC from the stand to a spot next to the “Tardis” hive.  I only briefly peeked at the top box.  They only had four frame sides built out in the top box on my last inspection.  It looks like they may have expanded the wax to part of two more frame sides.

Next, I set a spare hive bottom on the ground and unstacked the “Bees Rules” hive in reverse order onto the new bottom (intending to do an inspection as they were restacked later).  One more bottom on the ground and attempted to unstack the “Utah” hive the same way.  I set down the bottom, took the top medium off of the hive and placed it on the bottom board.  When I tried to move the bottom brood box on top of the medium I was reminded that I had screwed the bottom of this box to the brood box!!  Well, the plan was to replace this woodenware anyway, so I just moved the bottom and the brood box (attached) to the top of the medium box. 

Whew!! The hive stand had been emptied.  I flipped it on its side and proceeded to shorten the legs with a skill saw.  Set back on its base bricks and leveled!  Now it was time to put things back together.

Because the bottom of the “Utah” hive was attached, I was short one bottom board that I needed to put things back together.  I placed the existing (screwed together) base and brood box on the side of the hive stand.  I then set an inner cover on the stand and placed the medium super on the inner cover.  This freed up the base that I had previously relocated the “Utah” hive to.  I put the base in its position on the hive stand and sat a newly painted and properly sized brood box on the stand.  I then proceeded to to an inspection on the “Utah” hive.  As I inspected (and photographed) each frame from the brood box, I moved the frame to the new brood box.  Six well built frames of comb and two poorly built partial frames.  I figure six is good for a small hive.  I then proceeded to inspect the medium and place it on top of the new brood chamber.  Six nicely built out frames in the medium, two untouched frames.  I guess this is a six over six NUC for the winter.

Lots of bees, lots of larvae and capped brood.  Percentage wise, this one had more resources than the “Tardis” hive, but it is still light for the winter in my beginner’s opinion.  Will need more feeding after the bees start to cluster a bit.  Added one of my combination feeder/quilt boxes to the top and then closed things up.

The last hive to reposition was the “Bees Rules” hive.  Two deeps and a medium.  The plan was to do an inspection and put Formic Pro between the two deeps.  When I took off the top the bees were boiling out of every opening they could find and they were not in their normally cooperative mood.  In fact, they were rather agitated.  I guess they took exception to being re-arranged twice in the same day.

Of course, as Murphy would have it, this was the perfect time for my smoker to run out of fuel.  I spent a few minutes puffing air at them before I realized that it had either gone out or was out of fuel.  By this time, the tops of all three boxes were completely covered in multiple layers of pissed off bees.  By the time I got the smoker reloaded and relit there was no smoking them back into their boxes.  One thing that I didn’t notice at the time was that a lot of them had exited from the front of the hive (on the ground) and were covering the ground in front of the hive.

I unstacked the boxes where I could find room for them and set the base up on its position on my newly lowered hive stand.  As I was getting set to inspect the bottom brood box I became aware of the fact that there were bees trying to staple my socks to my ankles!  I had walked through the area where the bees had gotten out on the ground from the front entrance.  Quick change of inspection plans.  I took a brief break to get out of my hood and jacket, went inside the house and took off my pants to shake the bees out of my pant legs. 

At this point I had decided that I should forgo the inspection and just put “Bees Rules” back together on the stand.  I suited back up and quickly put the first brood box on the base.  I applied the Formic Pro strips and then quickly stacked the second brood box on top of the first.  Next to add was the medium (with a beetle blaster and a swiffer pad). 

Mission accomplished.  I had lowered the hive stand and applied the formic acid.  Granted, I only got half of the inspections done that I would wanted to have done, but they weren’t the purpose of today’s effort.

Incidentally, I unintentionally reversed the brood boxes on “Bees Rules” and took at least a dozen stings on my ankles and lower legs.  I guess I have some problems with keeping my focus when there are bees climbing up my pant legs.  I’ll want to avoid that in the future:)

Into the Tardis! – August 9th

The Tardis hive seems to be real active and healthy.  Time to tear it down and see how things are really going.  While I have observed what I think are good quantities of wet brood and capped brood, I haven’t found the queen the last couple of times I’ve done an inspection.  Today’s plan was to see if there was enough brood to steal a frame to reinforce the Misty NUC (which has had back-to-back brood breaks due to queen supercedure).  Chris, the queen breeder from H. T. Krantz said that he does not mark his queens because they are so hygienic that they clean off the marking.  Sounds like marketing to me, but I did mark here at my first opportunity.  Time will tell.

Before taking a frame of brood for Misty, I wanted to be absolutely and positively sure that the Tardis queen was not on the frame that I was transferring.  The only way I could think of to be positive would be to find and cage the queen before taking the frame.

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So here she is, caught in a queen clip before the transfer.  You can see her marking at the leftish bottom of the clip.  Looks just like it did when I marked her.  No wear and tear no the marking yet.  While I did find her rather easily (on the 20th frame that I looked for her on) I have to remember that I did not see her on my two previous inspections of this hive.  I’m having second thoughts about using white markings, but I’m not sure what would work better.  I might try emergency green next year.

Tardis looks to be in great shape.  Lots of stores and brood in the two deep brood boxes.  About half of the frames in the medium super on top are built out in wax and they are storing phony honey (from sugar syrup) there.  I felt real comfortable taking a frame of brood for the Misty NUC.

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I put the frame of brood in the middle of the new upper brood chamber (5 over 5 frames) to draw more of the Misty bees into the upper box to get them started on building it out with Winter resources.  The other side of the frame only has about half the capped brood that this side does.  It will be interesting to see if they follow my plan:)

New Queen in Misty NUC – Aug 8

The little NUC that I split off of the “Bees Rules” hive with a couple of the supercedure cells raised a new queen in July.  After she had laid up all of the available space in the NUC, the bees – once again – sperceded her.  Not sure if it was a problem with the queen or if I may have accidentally killed her (or if she may have been killed in a robbery).  Anyhow, that was on July 20th and I figured that if the new queen was going to bee bred she should bee there by now.

DSCN3350 Finding a queen is a lot easier in a NUC than it is in a big hive with supers and multiple brood boxes.  Found her on the second frame and took the opportunity to mark her to make the job easier next time.  Not a lot of larvae to be seen yet, but she is just starting out.  I’ll need to keep the feed on this NUC through the fall.  I did add a second five frame NUC on top with foundation two days ago.  If they can build all of that out they might actually make it through the Winter.

Took a look at the Utah hive (really just a NUC in an eight frame brood box with a medium of foundation on top).  They are building up resources.  They have a lot more pollen stored than I have seen in the other hives.  They have a couple of heavy frames and are building wax in the medium on top.  I’ll keep the feed on them until they have built out all of the frames or it gets too cold for them to make wax.

Sustainability Planning

One of the current problems that bee keepers are having relates to low hive survival rates, particularly over the Winter.  A lot of hobbyist bee keepers just accept the losses and buy replacement bees in the Spring.  I think I need a more sustainable approach.

I would prefer to just have one single beehive.  Unfortunately, it seems that you need to keep at least two to allow reinforcement of week hives and moving bees out of crowded hives to reduce the risk of swarming.

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With my recent experience in getting the bees to make new queens, I have decided that using what I learned in the process I should be able to cover normal winter hive losses by running a couple of small (NUC) hives just for bee and queen building.  This would allow me to breed my own queens for annual replacement as well as providing insurance hives to cover me if one of my main hives succumbs to winter.  I have most of the woodenware (and bees) to do this, so I guess I have a plan.

The plan then, is to go into Winter with two hives and two NUCs.  If I do well (no losses) I will have two hives ready to take advantage of our Maryland Spring nectar flow.  If only half survive I can populate the main hive losses by moving the NUCs over and have a great start on our short spring nectar flow with built out comb without having to buy bees and wait.

If the NUCs survive I will unstack the boxes making four 5 frame NUCS, place an “egg layer” frame in the best hive.  Once it has fresh eggs (larvae less than three days old) I will move the frame into a queenless NUC and let the bees there make new queens.  These will then bred in the four NUCs and the best two will be used to replace the queens in the main hives later in the year (June or July).

I’ll move the old queens from the main hives into the NUCs (pinching the queens there) and restack the NUCs to build for the following winter.

Busy Summer Bees

Need to catch up here a bit.  Had a bit of excitement this summer.  I tried to replace the queen in my “Bees Rules” hive.  The process had gone so smoothly in the Tardis hive that I actually thought I knew what I was doing.  Wrong!  Went into the “Bees Rules” hive a week after changing the queen and there were supercedure cells everywhere!!  No queen to be found!  Seems the bees didn’t agree with my choice.

Pulled a frame with cells, a capped brood frame, and a resource frame and tossed them in a five frame NUC.  Then I patiently waited a couple of weeks to see if they could raise a queen or two of their liking. 

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Checked both the original hive and the NUC once the cells had time to hatch, harden and get bred.  Eggs and larvae in every available cell in both boxes. 

New queen in the “Bees Rules” box is kicking butt.  The little NUC, however, is a different story.  Either the bees there didn’t like their hyper productive new queen, or I damaged her doing the inspection.  There were about a half a dozen supercedure cells and no queen to be found when I did the hive inspection with a plan to mark the new queen.  This was on the 27th of July.  This is rather late in the summer for the hive to get their new virgin queen out in time to get bred. 

I’ll probably end up having to combine the NUC back into the “Bees Rules” box in the fall but for now I’m being optimistic that they can build up before then to the point that they can make it through the winter.

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New queen in “Bees RUles”

Super Queens – 20 July

So I have a hive and a NUC that are in the process of creating their own queens from supercedure cells.  Counting back in the queen calendar from when I first noticed the capped queen cells there should be eggs in the hives today if the virgin queens were successful in their nuptial flights.

I have not been able to see new eggs on a frame (yet).  In an effort to address this shortcoming I decided that I need to try taking digital photographs that I could enlarge and review on my computer.  I haven’t used my digital camera for a couple of years so the project started out digging through drawers and cabinets to get a camera and tripod for the effort.

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Got through the ‘Misty’ NUC without a problem, although trying to operate a camera with my hive gloves on was not the best of experiences, and the propolis!! I got half way through the “Bees Rules” box and the battery on the camera died.  Gurrr…

Well, I had what pictures I had and this was mostly an experiment anyway, so I buttoned the hives back up and headed inside to take a look at the pictures.

It seems that I had grabbed an older Canon digital camera that uses the large format CF cards.  I didn’t have a CF card reader for this form factor.  I tried doing an USB connection with the camera to get to the pictures.  Four hours later I figure out that the drivers for the camera don’t work with Windows 10.  GURRR…

Order CF card reader on Amazon and wait…

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Looks like I got eggs!!  Why are these so easy to see in pictures, but are invisible to the eye???

In fact, it seems that every available cell on every built out frame had eggs in them.  Quite a few actually had more than one egg in the cell, but the eggs were attached to the bottom (not the sides) of the cells.  It would seem that both the main hive and the NUC had successfully made their own queens.

About this time, my wife points out that we have a cute little Nikon digital camera that is more modern than the Canon with a lot higher resolution.  Different camera next time!

Revolution in “Bees Rules” July 4th

Well, I figured that the 4th of July would be a good day to dig into the “Bees Rules” hive to catch and mark the new queen from Snyder’s.  Three frames into the first brood box I ran into a frame with several capped supercedure cells.  I very carefully and thoroughly inspected every frame to see if the supercedure cells were just a knee jerk reaction on the part of the hive, but I could not find the queen.

Obviously, the bees did not like the new queen from Snyders!!  Further in, I found three other frames with supercedure cells.  At this point, I’m thinking that I need to let the bees do this on their own.

I pulled an eight frame deep that I was using for a trap and moved the frames from the “Misty” NUC into the trap (with three new frames of foundation).  I took two frames of brood (with supercedure cells), 1 of resources and two frames of foundation and created a new “Misty” NUC.  I left the other frames with supercedure cells in the “Bees Rules” box and filled the empty slots with foundation.  I’m figuring that splitting the supercedure cells up this way will double my odds of actually getting a mated queen out of the effort.

If I only get one queen in the deal I can recombine the boxes back into the “Bees Rules” hive.  If they both fail??  IDK.

Time to wait and watch…

Two hives now… June 8th

 

Note: It is a lot more work to inspect two hives than one little hive.

In the Tardis

Earlier in the week (June 3rd) I got into the Tardis hive to see if the new queen had been released.  She was still in the queen cage, but the bees seemed to have accepted her.  Not knowing that there is a cork in both sides of the queen cage I popped the staple that was holding the screen and released her into the hive.  She is a lot darker than my other queen.  I sure hope I can find her later to mark her. 

The guy at Krantz told me that her line is extremely hygienic and that if I marked her the bees would clean the paint off.  We’ll see.  I’m thinking that he just doesn’t want to deal with the risk of the additional handling and having the mating hive accept her with the paint on.

While the queen was in the cage the rest of the hive was pretty busy building wax and collecting nectar and pollen.  I added the second brood chamber.

Two of the frames in the bottom box have had the wax built too wide to properly squeeze the frames back together.  I’ll have to figure out how to trim these back down to keep the bee space under control with these.

Bees Rules Hive

I’ve decided that I really suck at finding bee eggs.  There is lots of capped brood in areas that I thought were nectar storage.  There are a few frames of foundation in this hive though that the bees don’t seem to want to have anything to do with.  Most notable are the all plastic frames and the ‘plastic green drone’ frame.  I pulled these frames that the bees don’t seem to loke and painted them with melted bees wax.  It will be interesting to see it that makes the difference.

Replacing my Queen

I drove out to Frederick, MD this morning to pick up a new queen from H. T. Krantz.  He doesn’t mark the queens that he sells, so I guess I’ll have to learn how to do that later this summer.  Queens come in little wooden boxes with one hole blocked by fondant (cake icing?)

The plan was to pinch (kill) the original queen and put the new queen (in the wooden cage) into the hive for the bees to get used to her.That was the plan until I opened up the hive to find the old queen.  Somehow she must have figured out that her job was on the line because the hive was in way better shape than it was during last week’s inspection.  The bees had built out wax on all but two of the frames, and the frames with larvae/capped brood had 50 – 70 percent coverage. 

Most of the split frames (partial foundation) had been built out with drone comb on the open sections and worker comb on the foundation sections.  This was exactly what I was hoping that they would do.  Suddenly I was looking at a hive that was performing quite well.  I changed my mind about pinching the queen and decided to do a ‘split’ instead.

The Tardis Hive

I pulled two frames of mostly capped brood and one with nectar/pollen along with one of my partial foundation frames and put them in a new hive, along with the new queen from Krantz.

  I painted this one last winter, but didn’t plan to use it unless I caught a swarm or came across some unexpected source of bees.  The split is only using the bottom box right now, but I will add the other boxes as the hive grows. 

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So now I have two hives.  The original “Bees Rules” hive with the original queen from Kevin and a split that I made with the new queen from Krants.  I think I still need to replace the queen from Kevin this year, but for now she is doing a great job. 

May 20th. Is my queen lazy?

At this point, I have a single hive.  It is two 8 frame deeps.  I started the hive from a five frame NUC on April the 14th.  This should be the peak of the local nectar flow, bit I don’t see these bees taking advantage of the flow.  I’m less than impressed with how much foundation the bees are or are not building out into comb.  The queen seems to just be laying small patches of eggs (although I haven’t figured out how to see eggs yet).

So far, only eight of the 16 frames are comb and the other eight are untouched foundation.  Granted, I did give them a couple of frames of built out comb and they do seem to be making use of it.  Seven of the frames have caped brood or larvae covering 10 – 30 percent of the frames.  One does have about 90% capped brood, so possibly there is hope.

They do seem to be building out a little drone comb in to open area of the split foundation frames that I made.  I’m concerned that there may be performance issues with this queen, so I have a replacement from H. T. Krantz on the way.

According to local lore, this is supposed to be the time of year when the bees are killing it with the pollen and nectar.  Not much evidence of that this week.  The weather probably has not been too cooperative for nectar production.  I wonder if this means a nectar flow that extends further into June or if the flow will happen all in a few weeks and the bees won’t be able to take advantage of it.